The theme of sustainability and ethical consumption has now reached the #menswear magazine and blogging world. In brief, it manifests as a call to buy better and to buy local. This is laudable – it’s harder and harder to avoid shocking headlines like the one about the 15 largest ships in the world (all or almost all container ships that move the world’s merchandise around) emitting more nitrogen and sulfur than all of the world’s cars combined. However, as with so many other aspects of clothing, complications lurk under the surface
In Britain many things arrive late. New films, trends, technology. The trains, of course, but this is a valuable source of bland conversation for a notoriously non-confrontational people. I think this feeling of lateness explains why I’ve always found a strange satisfaction over the years in seeing my American friends pay for things over here, only to be confronted by a digital device’s demand for analogue proof: a signed receipt, a security method the rest of us had forgotten even existed.
Catching up with an old colleague last week, I noticed that this intense, brilliant force of nature, who has dedicated years of her life unflinchingly working to combat some of humanity’s most sordid problems, was wearing novelty Christmas pants. That morning, her steely eye must have picked out in her closet the trousers with printed Christmas trees, candy canes, and wrapped presents, and her acetylene-acute mind would have deemed them good.
I recently returned to work at a retail suit shop and since my return, many a potential shopper has asked me how they should be dressing at work now that most of their workspaces no longer require a full suit and tie. So in honor of these confused men, I’m going to do my best to teach you and your most swaggerless homey how to take some of the best tailoring pieces and make them into elevated street wear ‘fits.
How do you remember something you never knew? The orphaned opening words of Arnys et moi, journalist Philippe Trétiack’s memoir of the late and legendary Paris shop Arnys, raise that question: “I never stepped in. I never bought anything there. And now, it’s too late.”
Scion of fabled wealth, collector of rare art, sophisticate, international financier. Except he was none of these things - the man known for a decade as Clark Rockefeller was, in fact, eventually revealed to be Christian Karl Gerhartsreiter, a German national who came to the United States in 1978, and adopted a series of false identities until his eventual capture and conviction for several violent felonies. But in some ways Herr Gerhartsreiter was more genuine heir to the Rockefeller clan than he knew.
Gold leaf has become relatively, infuriatingly, common in flashily expensive food. Restaurants and bars use it as an excuse to price an item ridiculously, clickbaitably high at little expense to them (the quantities used per item must be nearly worthless). Of course, gold adds nothing to the taste of an item, either. Perhaps I find it infuriating because it is so uncreative, so tawdry.