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The Making of a Neapolitan Jacket
12 Oct

The Making of a Neapolitan Jacket

Making a bespoke Neapolitan jacket takes dozens of hours, and a lifetime to learn. If you’re expecting to finish this article with the ability to make your own jacket from start to finish, let me warn you now that you will be disappointed. But if you’re hoping to wear your own jacket with a better idea of how it was created, that hope I will try to fulfill

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Lessons Learned: The Casual Conundrum
12 Jun

Lessons Learned: The Casual Conundrum

I am not a particularly creative person. My right-brain functions are sorely underdeveloped (nb.:  alas, the same could be said of my left-brain functions, but one thing at a time). I take comfort in structure, routine, pattern, and certainty.

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Dressing for a Wedding
25 Mar

Dressing for a Wedding

June is the most popular month for weddings, which means you may have to attend one in the not-so-distant future. Thankfully, as a man, dressing to be a wedding guest is fairly straightforward. Suit, tie, and polished oxfords are standard, but those categories are broad and include some bad ideas. Here are some tips on how to get it right.

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Dressing for the Weekend
15 Mar

Dressing for the Weekend

When I was a grad student, the weekend had little significance. Studying literature, I only needed to be in meetings occasionally, and I dressed accordingly: the choice between jeans and chinos, linen or flannel or Oxford cloth was a whim. I wore a jacket some days, but only for variety.

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Developing Your Eye
22 Sep

Developing Your Eye

I once read of an interaction between an antiques collector and the writer Bruce Chatwin, who as a young man worked in the antiques department of Sotheby’s. The collector had seen Chatwin pull out of a pile of worthless rubbish the one article that had any character and value. “I see that you have The Eye,” began the collector. “I too have The Eye.”

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Stay Classy
01 Aug

Stay Classy

Wide-eyed newcomers to the mad, mad world of #menswear often ask for clear rules for deciding the quality of a piece of clothing, usually without much success. One easy first step on that sartorial learning curve is that shirts whose collars have stays sewn inside them are invariably low quality. 

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On Elegant Alternatives
31 Jan

On Elegant Alternatives

Recent events, and recent reactions by my doughty friend @dirnelli (who is to suits what Lon Chaney, Sr. was to faces), caused the brakes to fail on my train of thought. Commenting about a recently anointed world leader with appalling clothing habits despite an expensive wardrobe, @dirnelli rightly notes that “[t]he most expensive threads don’t buy you an ounce of style.” 

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It's All About the Details
11 Oct

It's All About the Details

Fashion is always changing, or so they say. But it’s nice to know there are a few things you can still count on - J Crew sending you a new coupon code, the forums telling you, in minute detail, what’s is wrong with your fit pics and menswear types often reminding you that ‘it’s all about the details’.

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