by David Isle

Angelo Inglese's grandfather Gianni founded the sartoria G. Inglese in Puglia in 1955. Today they still make bespoke shirts, jackets, and ties, as well as ready-made to stores worldwide.

David Isle: How would you describe the G. Inglese collar construction? 

Angelo Inglese: We have maybe twenty types of collar lining. So we use whichever type suits the needs of the client. We also do unlined collars, as well as fused collars if that's what the client asks for, if they don't want the slightly wrinkled look an unfused collar can have. But our standard is for an unfused collar.

DI: You also do one-piece collars?

AI: We do. It's a little more difficult to do a collar in only one piece, but not absurdly so.

DI:  What kind of collar do you like to wear when you're not wearing a tie?

AI: To me, an open collar should be a smaller collar. Otherwise it starts to go off in all directions. Or a button-down collar.

DI: Is it difficult to operate a workshop that is capable of fulfilling so many different types of orders?

AI: It's difficult because for each client you have to keep straight all the options they have chosen, and at times some personal elements they've added themselves for a bespoke order. But we're used to it by now, as bespoke shirts are the main focus of our business.

DI: You recently provided the shirt for Prince William's wedding?

AI: Yes – we had made some royal families previously as well, but since then we have worked made for many more. For the Belgian royal family, we make a pocket square on which we embroider a gold-and-silver chandelier which they have hanging in their ballroom. Once a year they give a party there and every guest takes home one of these pocket squares.

DI: Are there particular touches of your own that every Inglese shirt shares?

AI: Not necessarily one particular detail, but our personal advice that we give to every client. Our clients trust us to help them choose fabrics and designs that are well suited to their look, lifestyle, and personality.

DI: Do you often work with shirtings other than pure cotton?

AI: Yes – sometimes artisanal fabrics that are quite rare, including some fabrics from the fifties and sixties we've had reproduced, often mixing in linen or silk.