As if there weren’t enough evidence of the continued decline of English taste and sensibility, I have managed to secure an invitation to tonight’s Savile Row event at the British embassy. Perhaps the dress code at such an event should be an unspoken understanding, but the organizers left nothing to chance and demanded “cocktail attire.”
Modern dandies idolize the tailor as the “doctor to the soul,” the sage maestro who can create gentlemen out of cloth and canvas. But this is perhaps an example of romanticizing an endangered species, the same way the irascible and coarse panda bear appears in the public consciousness as a lovable, downy playmate.
153 years ago yesterday, Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox Court House, essentially ending the American Civil War. This was one of the most momentous meetings in all of American, bringing an end to four years of bitter, murderous warfare.
Anietra Hamper thought that if she bought a clothing item specifically for her job as a TV news anchor, then she should be able to deduct it from her taxes. So she kept meticulous records of the $20,000+ dollars she spent every year on business clothing, which included conservative suits, as well as bikinis and thong underwear (part of a well-rounded business wardrobe). If a baseball player can deduct his uniform, she reasoned, why can’t she deduct hers?
There are very few famous suits. There are famous silhouettes or styles, but specific individual suits rarely penetrate the collective consciousness. Cary Grant’s suit in North by Northwest (1959) is one of the few exceptions.
Kimitoshi Chida designs Sage de Cret, which has produced some of the most unique and enjoyable clothing to come through No Man Walks Alone, from last year’s rabbit fur fishtail parka (keep an eye out for this year’s version, soon to come to the No Man store) to the newly arrived patchwork jacquard coat, shown above. He kindly answered a few questions about his design process and vision.
At some point in your life as a grownup, you will purchase pants that come with an unfinished hem. They will probably sit in your closet unworn, for a couple of weeks at least, as you forget to bring them to the alterations tailor day after day.