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Basic
23 Feb

Basic

Middle age is about becoming uneasily comfortable with who we are and with who we are not – that we change simply by staying the same.  That is, our tastes, our very beliefs that we once thought – and which may have been – so original, so refined, so progressive, so eclectic – have now become, with our own middle age, middlebrow, stodgy, even offensive.

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Newness and Dearness
16 Feb

Newness and Dearness

150 years ago, Alexandre Dumas introduced two minor characters to dinner at the Count of Monte Cristo’s, dressing them perfectly for the occasion in brand-new clothes from the finest real-life tailors and outfitters, and then immediately set their fellow dinner guests to criticizing them.

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Reckoning
26 Jan

Reckoning

It was time. Like some death cart from Daniel Defoe’s A Journal of the Plague Year, which my morbid ass had reread at the beginning of confinement, I made the rounds, from room to room, over and over, slowly, wrenchingly, prising out each single condemned charge one by one from its temporary resting place in closets, under beds, at the back of drawers.

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Untrueisms: The Convenience of Custom
12 Jan

Untrueisms: The Convenience of Custom

Anyone today who has made a conscious choice to order custom clothing is doing so for the self-indulgence of the ritual: the inefficiency of paging through fabric books, the odd choreography of measurements and fittings, the fetishistic control over details, colors, trimmings and the strangely masochistic wait for the damn thing to be finally finished and then delivered. Indeed, the inevitable length of time between order and delivery of custom clothing is perhaps the greatest argument against its convenience in a time-constrained world. 

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Woodstock's (Sugarplum) Dream
22 Dec

Woodstock's (Sugarplum) Dream

To quote the great Takeshi Kaga, “If memory serves me right, Christmas is just around the corner.” And with it, a tightening of the tension between cocooned self-indulgence and the ethereally transcendent.

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Alternative Style Icon: Jawn Fetterman
24 Nov

Alternative Style Icon: Jawn Fetterman

It is easy to write about gestures. About a particular pose that readers can infer stands for sincerity or that authenticity. In that manner, I could write paragraph about paragraph about John Fetterman, the 6’8” tall, imposing and intimidating lieutenant governor of Pennsylvania.

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What Is 2020?
10 Nov

What Is 2020?

It’s amazing to realize the joy that can arise simply from the removal of crushing despair. Nonetheless, this year continues to inexorably grind out reminders of its awfulness, most recently with the announcement of the death of Alex Trebek.

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Ersatz Frenchness
03 Nov

Ersatz Frenchness

Greg, the Man of No Man Walks Alone, once told me he couldn’t stand the fake “fallen noble” look of Arnys, which was once a niche shop on Paris’ Left Bank and is now a minor legend in the fashion firmament. It is known more widely than is what it was known for, so it stands for many things now that it did not or should not have while it was still a quaint, shockingly expensive store one could visit, as I often did.

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