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How a Shirt Should Fit
07 Nov

How a Shirt Should Fit

Most men can find well-fitting shirts off-the-rack; the question is whether or not they know one when they see it. Though a surprising number of men don't know how a shirt should fit, once learned, the lessons become intuitive. 

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Think About Shape
05 Nov

Think About Shape

The price of suits and sport coats varies widely, running anywhere from $200 to $20,000. The asking price for high-end pieces is often justified by the quality of construction; but the surprising bit of news is that most consumers aren’t able to tell what they’re paying for. What’s believed to be hand-stitching can be machine-made to look like handwork, and the quality of materials can often only be judged after years of use.

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Charles Macintosh and the History of the Raincoat
03 Nov

Charles Macintosh and the History of the Raincoat

As necessity is the mother of invention, the nature of a country's inventions can tell you a lot about the pregnant necessities they have running around. For example, the cocktail received entrepreneurial attentions during Prohibition in the United States, when the bathtub gin available at the time was so distasteful that it required mixers to cloak its flavor. Or the adoption of the cummerbund among British military officers in India, which was an effort to combat the local heat and humidity. And so it was that Charles Macintosh invented the process of waterproofing fabric by rubberizing it in Glasgow, Scotland, whose Wikipedia page informs us that “Long dry spells of warm weather are generally very scarce.”

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Casentino Wool
31 Oct

Casentino Wool

Today many fabrics market themselves for their fineness or softness – which feel luxurious in the store, but often result in a garment that loses its shape or even falls apart after a season or two.

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Discerning Quality in Leather
29 Oct

Discerning Quality in Leather

Like a fine wines, cheeses, and John Waters movies, quality leather is something best appreciated years after its release . A well-made piece will break in, while a poorly made one will break down. The difference is largely the cut and treatment of the material. Lower-quality brands use mid-slices of a hide, then “correct” the surface with glossy chemical solutions to give it the impression of a healthy animal skin. 

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Three Costume Suggestions Out of Your Tailored Wardrobe
27 Oct

Three Costume Suggestions Out of Your Tailored Wardrobe

If you're like me, every Halloween you find yourself staring at your closet, wondering what notable character your wardrobe could impersonate convincingly. After all, if it is true that a well tailored suit does to women what lingerie does to a man, then on the night when it is acceptable for women to go out in public in lingerie, men should be allowed an opportunity to show themselves at their most aphrodiastic as well.

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Breaking Down the Suit Jacket Silhouette
24 Oct

Breaking Down the Suit Jacket Silhouette

Most people think of suits as being British, Italian, or American - the first being “structured,” the second “softly tailored,” and the third a "sack cut." But what a suit looks like can be much more complicated than that. There can be curves and lines throughout the jacket that give the wearer a certain look. Here are some of the main details that make up a suit's silhouette.

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Three Ways to Make Suede
22 Oct

Three Ways to Make Suede

“Suede” is one of those words used to describe a group of different things that most people think of as all the same. Like “Africa,” or “blogger.” Suede generally refers to any leather that has a “nap” to it – that is, loose fibers that give the material a soft, velvety feel, and a deep color. There are three different ways such a finish is achieved.

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