Your first meeting with a bespoke tailor might fill you with nervous excitement - you don't know if you're “ready” for bespoke. You're worried the tailor will laugh at your body's irregularities. You may be paralyzed by the abundance of cloth choices, and, like Buridan's ass, end up lying naked between two hopsacks. To help you avoid this fate, I've prepared a short description of what will happen at your first meeting, and some suggestions to make sure it goes smoothly.
There are few more enduring legends in Western literature than that of the Holy Grail. The Grail was the cup used by Jesus at the Last Supper, then later by Joseph of Arimathea to catch the blood of Christ on the cross. Centuries later, the worthy Sir Galahad, son of Lancelot, was inspired by a vision to seek the Grail.
In Part 1, Stephan Schneider talked about Floating Inflations, his design process, and his design ethos. Today he discusses the new consumer, the role of the internet, and the crazy things he has in his own wardrobe.
Antwerp-based Stephan Schneider’s quiet, sophisticated collections are a No Man favorite. I talked to him about Floating Inflations, his collection for Spring/Summer 2014, and many other things, ranging from fabric design to his place in the fashion industry. It’s a two-parter, so don’t worry - there’s more to come
I have Florence (not the one in Georgia) on my mind, having just bought my plane tickets for Pitti Uomo 86 this summer. Florence has produced not just the 85 previous Pitti menswear shows, but also two of the greatest sculptors ever: Donatello and Michelangelo. Donatello predated Michelangelo, but in some ways they followed similar paths as artists – at first defiantly virtuosic, at last sagely humble.
Brush the dust off any menswear history book, and inside you’ll find that much of what we wear today can be traced back to either military or work uniforms. Sport coats, for example, originate with hunting in England, neckties with the kerchiefs that Croatian soldiers used to tie around their necks, and jeans from the canvas overalls made for Gold Rush miners in California.
As an American living in London, there are a few things you quickly get used to: Any mention of the 13th element will lead to, at least, a five minute discussion. You can eat for months only in pubs that are older than America without ever repeating. And the not-infrequent jokes about 'colonials' will quickly come to feel about as old as those pubs.